When Devin and I moved into our new home, we had about 5 pieces of furniture to our name. We are on a budget and don’t want to buy all brand new furniture. I thought that the coffee table would be a manageable project for us to take on! While watching the Fixer Upper one day (my favorite show) I spotted a gorgeous coffee table made by Clint Harp. I went to my local architectural salvage shop and found 4 beautiful table legs then tried my best to replicate his design. Check out these 9 steps on how you can make this coffee table!
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TOOLS
Miter Saw or Circle Saw |
Tape Measure |
Speed Square |
Kreg Jig w/ drill bit |
1 1/4″ Pocket screws (fine) |
1 1/2″ Pocket screws (coarse) |
Cordless Drill |
Nailer with 1 1/2″ Brad Nails |
Wood Glue |
Wood Filler |
Putty Knife |
Hand Sander |
Sanding Paper |
Pre Stain Wood Conditioner |
Stain (Golden Oak) |
Oil-based Polyurethane |
Staining Brush |
Rags |
LUMBER LIST
(#) | DIMENSION |
(1) | 1″ x 3″ x 8′ Poplar (4 Supports) |
(1) | 1″ x 3″ x 6′ Poplar (1 Middle Support) |
(2) | 3/4″ x 1″ x 8′ Poplar (Table Trim) |
(1) | 3/4″ x 4′ x 8′ Plywood Poplar (Table Top) |
(4) | Table legs 15 1/4″ (Home Depot) |
CUT LIST
(#) | WOOD | LENGTH |
(4) | 1″ x 3″ | @ 31″ (supports) |
(1) | 1″ x 3″ | @ 33 1/2″ (middle support) |
(4) | 3/4″ x 1″ | @ 41 1/2 (table trim 45 degree long end to long end) |
(1) | 3/4″ x 4′ x 8′ | @ 40″ x 40″ (table top) |
Step 1: Cut Materials
See cut list above. I went to home depot and had them cut the big stuff for me so that I could fit it into my SUV. I found some unique table legs at this architectural resale shop but found out they were too short.. The table legs shown below are ones I found from Home Depot and they are perfect!!
Step 2: Drill Pocket Holes
Set your kreg jig and drill bit to 3/4″. Line up your wood in the kreg jig like the picture below and use slots A and B for drilling the holes. For each of the 4 supports, you should have 2 holes in each end and 3 holes along the top (see picture below).
Step 3: Assemble Table Legs and Supports
Use wood glue and your 1 1/2″ screws to secure the supports to the table legs. I used a 1/4″ spacer (scrap piece of tile under the 1″ x 3″) so that there will be a 1/4″ gap, instead of the 1″ x 3″ being flush with the table leg.
Step 4: Install Middle Support
Measure and cut your middle support. Drill two pocket holes in each end and screw them into your side supports using 1 1/4″ screws.
Step 5: Attach Table Top
Attach the top of the table to the base using the 1 1/4″ screws. Screw up from the top of the 1″ x 3″ supports into the table top. For this step I flipped the entire table top and base over on the ground so I could easily screw into the table top. Make sure to measure and center the base with the table top.
Step 6: Nail on Edging
Cut the edging to size using a 45 degree angle on your miter saw. Use wood glue and a nailer to nail the edging into your table top. Don’t worry if there are gaps in your edging and the table top, or in the corners. You will fill in these gaps with wood filler.
Step 7: Fill Holes / Cracks
Use wood filler and a putty knife to fill in all the cracks, and gaps in your table top. Also fill in any little nail holes that are visible. This wood filler goes on pink then dries clear. Weird right??
Step 8: Sand
Sand the entire surface of the table using an electric sander or hand sander. Start with rough grit then work to fine grit. Be sure to get corners so they aren’t as sharp.
Step 9: Stain or Paint!
First use a pre stain wood conditioner, stain, then a polyurethane. Follow directions on each can. I used golden oak stain for this coffee table and I am not a huge fan of how it turned out. With the poplar wood, I wish I would have used a lighter stain like “Minwax: Simply White” or “Minwax: Pickled Oak” to keep the table nice and light.